Location : Pen Hir, Britanny, France
This crag is at the end of Pen Hir point. Right on the ocean’s edge, it provides a fabulous backdrop for climbing.
A local saying :
« At Pen Hir, you can have 4 sunrises in a single day! » (confirmed from personal experience)
You can buy the guidebook at the tourist office in de Camaret-sur-Mer, which helps the route setters to ensure the crags are well tended.
And you’ll have a nice souvenir to boot!
- Approach from above!
- Unpredictable weather, can change rapidly
Must-do routes :
- Megalithe, 6b, ‘la grotte’ (grotto) sector
- Adrénaline, 6a, ‘dalle de verre’ (glass slab) sector
- Préchauffage, 5a, ‘menhir’ sector
- Super Bocal, 5c/6a, ‘bocal’ sector
Follow ‘Presqu’île de Crozon’ then ‘Camaret-sur-Mer’
Where to celebrate your ticks :
- Crêperie Bar du Veryac’h
Local beers, really good crêpes, ocean view
- “La cidrerie de Rozavern” (cider bar)
Address : Kerferman, 29560 Telgruc-sur-Mer
Phone : (+33) (0)2 98 26 01 44
Open Monday through Saturday from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.
We stayed at:
Fabulous clean and spacious house with ocean view.
Plus point: sheep in the garden!
The best climbing gym in the area:
“Les danseurs du roc” club, in Morlaix
- FFME licence-holders needing no supervision can climb at the adult sessions : http://lesdanseursduroc.com/ go to the calendar, or the ‘le club-les séances’ tab.
- Non licence holders can purchase a 6€ day licence and can come to the adult sessions
The friendliest welcome we’ve ever had!
Water sports: with Olivier Rospart, state registered climbing instructor at Pen Hir, and diving instructor. www.cntelgruc.fr
Sites to visit:
The port at Camaret-sur-Mer
The town of Morlaix
Museum of the battle of the Atlantic