Bretagne

PenHir, Bretagne, France

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Location : Pen Hir, Britanny, France

This crag is at the end of Pen Hir point.  Right on the ocean’s edge, it provides a fabulous backdrop for climbing.

 

A local saying :

« At Pen Hir, you can have 4 sunrises in a single day! » (confirmed from personal experience)

The guidebook
The guidebook : Escalade à Pen-Hir, CD FFME 29, publ. 2015.

You can buy the guidebook at the tourist office in de Camaret-sur-Mer, which helps the route setters to ensure the crags are well tended.

And you’ll have a nice souvenir to boot!

Les voies

  • Type: single-pitch
  • Bolting: trad, sports
  • Classification: Traditional
  • Profile(s): slab, vertical
  • Holds: cracks, edges, slopers
  • Rock: Granite
  • Protected wildlife area, stick to the paths and take your rubbish home
  • Orientation: Up to you! Depends on the sector
  • Best time of year: Any time
  • Approach: 5 to 15 minutes
  • Quickdraws: 15
  • Rope length: 70m
  • Be careful at the base of the crag if you have children
  • Watch out for the tides too (check times)!
Routes
Easiest level
3
Average level
6
Hardest level
8a
Average route length
25m
Special features:
  • Approach from above!
  • Unpredictable weather, can change rapidly
Must-do routes :
  • Megalithe, 6b, ‘la grotte’ (grotto) sector
  • Adrénaline, 6a, ‘dalle de verre’ (glass slab) sector
  • Préchauffage, 5a, ‘menhir’ sector
  • Super Bocal, 5c/6a, ‘bocal’ sector

Practical aspects:

Access :

Follow ‘Presqu’île de Crozon’ then ‘Camaret-sur-Mer’

 

Where to celebrate your ticks :
  • Crêperie Bar du Veryac’h

Local beers, really good crêpes, ocean view

 

 

  • “La cidrerie de Rozavern” (cider bar)

Address : Kerferman, 29560 Telgruc-sur-Mer

Phone : (+33) (0)2 98 26 01 44

Open Monday through Saturday from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.

https://www.rozavern.fr/

 

Accommodation

In Camaret-sur-Mer

We stayed at:

https://www.charme-traditions.com/fr/locations-de-vacances/org/4062/agapanthe

Fabulous clean and spacious house with ocean view.

Plus point: sheep in the garden!

The best climbing gym in the area:

“Les danseurs du roc” club, in Morlaix

  • FFME licence-holders needing no supervision can climb at the adult sessions : http://lesdanseursduroc.com/ go to the calendar, or the ‘le club-les séances’ tab.
  • Non licence holders can purchase a 6€ day licence and can come to the adult sessions

The friendliest welcome we’ve ever had!

Other activities:

Sports:

Water sports: with Olivier Rospart, state registered climbing instructor at Pen Hir, and diving instructor. www.cntelgruc.fr

Sites to visit:

Cornouailles fortification

The port at Camaret-sur-Mer

The town of Morlaix

And that’s not all!

  • The Capucins fort: Link
  • “La pointe des Espagnols” (Spaniards’ point): Link
  • Locronan : Link
  • Aquarium at Brest : Link
  • Huelgoat and its rocks : Link
  • Menez Hom, the magical celtic mountain: Link

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